Led by designers Tom Ford, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Miuccia Prada, 90s minimalism in fashion was defined by well-tailored clothing that complemented the body, pared-down silhouettes that emphasized long, clean lines, and a restrained approach to design. The focus was on simple, well-cut garments with a reduced color palette. This era was inspired by the working women of the time, who reinterpreted traditionally masculine pieces—like blazers—into effortlessly feminine looks. Even the most casual outfits, such as a white tee and jeans, were elevated into elegant, on-the-go ensembles. Every design was meant to create a sleek and polished appearance while maintaining comfort and ease.
Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy is my ultimate style icon, and her approach to minimalism is something I’ve studied for a while now. As a former publicist for Calvin Klein, CBK embodied everything the brand stood for: minimalism, pared-down luxury, and effortlessly streamlined looks. Her style was characterized by crisp button-down shirts, neutral-toned clothing, pencil skirts, and minimal jewelry—an aesthetic that was simple yet undeniably chic. She remains one of the best figures to learn 90s minimalism from.
The Shirt
One of Carolyn’s go-to wardrobe staples was the white button-down shirt, which she styled in various ways—paired with tailored pants, jeans, or a skirt. Her college roommate, Dana Gallo Stratton, recalled how Carolyn often wore a button-down with sweatpants or a long midi skirt. One of my favorite looks of hers was at the Whitney Party, where she balanced the masculinity of a crisp white shirt with the femininity of a flowing black skirt. This balance of structured and soft elements reflected the strength and sophistication of the working women of her generation.
Figure 1: CBK at Whitney Party
The white shirt has always been a staple, whether for formal occasions or everyday wear. It is a versatile, timeless garment—comfortable, elegant, and effortlessly chic. Designer Ann Demeulemeester once said, “A shirt is beautiful, discreet, and chic.” Shirts come in various fabrics, fits, and styles—some cinched at the waist, others oversized—but they all share a unique balance between masculinity and femininity. Carolyn exemplified this balance, embodying the essence of 90s minimalism: simple yet sophisticated.
The Black
A quote from Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy that has stayed with me is, “If you can’t afford expensive fabrics or designs, then you should stick to black.” Black was the signature color of 90s minimalism—it symbolized elegance, versatility, and effortlessness. My favorite look Carolyn wore was the black gown she wore to the White House. The details in the off-shoulder elevated the simple look of the gown.
Figure 2: CBK at the White House
During that era, black was the go-to choice for almost everyone; it paired with everything, worked for both casual and formal settings, and always looked polished. Carolyn frequently wore black in various ways, proving its timeless appeal. The color black perfectly embodies the essence of 90s minimalism: understated yet sophisticated.
Figure 3 & 4: CBK in the streets of New York
The Accessories
Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy was known for her minimal approach to accessories—she rarely wore jewelry, not even on her wedding day.
Figure 5: CBK’s Wedding Dress
Today, jewelry is often used to elevate an outfit, but in the 90s, it was primarily a styling element rather than the focal point. What truly defined an outfit back then was the silhouette and craftsmanship of the clothing itself. The fashion of the era didn’t require excessive embellishment because the garments were impeccably designed to make a statement on their own. Designers carefully selected high-quality fabrics that enhanced the structure and elegance of each piece. A perfect example is Carolyn’s wedding dress, designed by Narciso Rodriguez, where the fluidity of silk and the clean, sculpted silhouette exuded timeless sophistication and understated beauty.
Some of Carolyn’s signature accessories included her shell headbands from C.O. Bigelow, available in both black and brown, as well as scarves, which she would effortlessly style either in her hair or around her neck. Another staple of hers was her sunglasses—particularly the handcrafted oval frames by the French brand Selima. These sleek, minimalist sunglasses embodied the 90s love for simple, monochromatic accessories that elevated even the most basic outfit with an air of effortless chic.
Figure 6: CBK wearing headband from C.O. Bigelow and sunglasses from Selima Optique
Figure 7: CBK wearing a scarf
Links:
Nair, S. K. (2023). CBK: Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. Abrams Books.
2 Comments. Leave new
Hi Francine! I love the post, I think the photos you chose do an excellent job of highlighting the aesthetic. I also really like how you talked about the differences from then and now. It does a good job of showing that an aesthetic is always changing and adapting.
Love your post Fran! It’s always great to hear someone discuss one of their passions and you can tell reading this post how much you care about fashion. I have a question about masculine vs feminine fashion. I noticed you placed a lot of emphasis on masculinity and femininity as contrasting forces in 90s minimalism. I am wondering what defines a garment as masculine in your opinion? For example, to me the white blouse in the 1st picture reads as a feminine piece given its deep v neckline and flowy fabric, but I noticed you attributed it to masculine style.