Final Design Report – Part 1: A Watchmakers Story

Project Description and Inspiration

For my main project in this course, I chose to take on the challenge of converting a 1907 Waltham Grade 165 (~0s, 15J) pocket watch movement into a modern wristwatch. This was not simply a mechanical task but an opportunity to preserve, repurpose, and breathe new life into a beautiful example of early American watchmaking.

The inspiration for this project came from both a fascination with pre-modern design and a personal appreciation for the level of craftsmanship that was once standard in everyday objects. The Waltham movement I selected features hand-engraved plates and a brilliant white enamel dial, embodying the ornate detail that was typical of the era before industrial modernism prioritized efficiency over ornamentation.

I also drew inspiration from early trench watches, which were among the first wristwatches ever made. Soldiers during World War I often converted pocket watches into wristwatches by soldering wire lugs onto the cases so they could be worn in combat. In fact, this exact movement was very popular with such conversions at the time. Although my project followed a different conversion method, this historical adaptation helped shape my approach and gave the project deeper historical context.

Additionally, my motivation to pursue this specific watch conversion was influenced by my father, who had been eyeing a Ulysse Nardin wristwatch featuring a similar enamel dial. I figured I could create something that would mean a lot more to him than if he were to just buy a luxury watch. The plan is to gift the finished watch to him, a piece with both historical significance and personal connection

Adapted Designs and Existing Examples

Much of the structural design of this project was adapted around NH35 and ETA 2824-compatible dive watch cases, which are widely available and offered a practical starting point for the build. These cases provided two critical features I needed: a waterproof seal and an exhibition caseback, which allows the movement to be displayed. However, because the original Waltham movement was not designed for wristwatch cases, significant modifications were required.

I researched other pocket watch conversions, including projects done by Vortic Watch Company, a Colorado-based brand known for creating oversized wristwatches using antique American pocket watch movements. While my project differs in scale and case design, the work done by Vortic demonstrated that there is value in blending vintage movements with modern casings. Their approach validated the concept of upcycling historical watch parts for contemporary use.

My project adapts this idea but in a more wearable size, using a 0s movement (29mm diameter) instead of the much larger railroad-grade 16s or 18s pocket watch movements often used in other conversions. This choice kept the watch’s proportions more practical and comfortable for everyday wrist wear.

 

 

 

 

 

Vision and Specifications

 

The primary goal for this project was to create a wristwatch that respects and showcases the craftsmanship of the Waltham movement while providing modern functionality. My key specifications included the following:

• Movement: 1907 Waltham Grade 165 (~0s, 15J) manual wind movement
• Case: NH35/ETA 2824-compatible dive-style case with a clear exhibition caseback
• Water Resistance: Maintain waterproof features provided by the modern case design
• Strap: Leather strap to avoid the overly modern aesthetic of a metal bracelet and preserve a more classic look
• Functionality: Hand-winding capability, good timekeeping accuracy, proper stem and crown engagement, and secure, rattle-free assembly

The artistic vision was centered on highlighting the hand-engraved bridges, gear train, and enamel dial of the movement. One of the main aesthetic priorities was to ensure that these historical elements were not hidden but instead became focal points of the design. The use of a transparent caseback was critical in achieving this.

Functionality was another top priority. The movement needed to operate reliably as a wristwatch, with smooth hand-setting and winding, proper alignment of the crown and stem, and structural integrity that would allow the piece to be worn comfortably and safely.

Initial Sketches and Design Process

The initial design phase of the project involved sketching out the basic assembly of the movement into the modern wristwatch case. Because the project required fitting an antique movement into a contemporary case designed for a different caliber, I focused early efforts on measuring and modeling the movement dimensions relative to the available case options.

I did not use full CAD modeling for the entire project, as much of the machining process required real-time adjustments and manual measurements. However, I created several dimensional sketches to visualize how much material needed to be removed from the inner diameter of the case and to plan the layout of the custom soft jaws used for milling.

To securely hold the case while machining, I designed and fabricated a set of custom aluminum soft jaws for the mill. These jaws featured a cylindrical recess to grip the outside edge of the case bezel, keeping the part stable while I machined out the inner diameter to fit the Waltham movement. This was my first time designing and making soft jaws, and it turned out to be a critical part of the process.

I encountered several learning moments during this phase. On my first machining attempt, I accidentally cut too far into the case, damaging the lip where the dial was meant to rest. I also had an issue with the caseback slipping in the jaws during milling, which resulted in the need to discard my first case. Thankfully, I had ordered two cases in anticipation of such problems.

The second attempt was successful, though I had to tighten the soft jaws to the point that the caseback became slightly ovular. Despite this, the fit was correct, and I was able to proceed with the assembly.

Embodiment of Aesthetic Vision

Throughout the design and fabrication process, I remained focused on balancing pre-modern aesthetic principles with modern functionality. The project embodies this aesthetic by preserving the hand-finished details of the movement while integrating it into a sleek, wearable form. The enamel dial, polished gears, and engraved bridges serve as visual reminders of early industrial craftsmanship, contrasting with the utilitarian simplicity of the modern dive case.

The decision to use a leather strap rather than a steel bracelet was also an intentional aesthetic choice. The leather softens the otherwise rugged feel of the dive case and aligns more closely with the historical origins of the movement.

Although the case itself is generic and does not reflect any specific design philosophy, the elements inside (the movement, dial, and visible mechanics) carry the project’s aesthetic weight. They tell the story of a different era, made functional and wearable today.

Next Steps and Current Status

The conversion is now complete with the exception of one remaining issue. To enable proper manual winding, I will need to replace the screw-down crown, stem, and case tube with non-screw-down components that are compatible with the vintage pendant-set system. The current screw-down design interferes with both the stem sleeve and the winding action, so resolving this will be the final modification before I fully complete the build.

The finished watch will be gifted to my father, which feels like a fitting conclusion to the project. Rather than purchasing a modern luxury watch, this piece represents a more personal, thoughtful alternative; a working example of historical craftsmanship restored and reimagined.